How to Photograph Your Part
for Accurate 3D Modeling
Why we need you to photograph your part in a specific way:
- In order for our 3D Modlers to be able to accurately and precisely recreate your part in 3D, they need to be able to see the part from every angle. This will allow the modelers to use the photographs to measure the distances of important features on the part.
- They will do this using a background grid (which we will give you) and using that in combination with the relative lengths they will measure from the photographs.
- The better the photographs the more accurately your part can be created or recreated.
- Since all parts are different, some may work perfectly with the protocol below, so if you find you are having difficulty with photographing your part, feel free to call or email us, and we will be happy to walk you through alternate methods and solutions.
What you will need:
Optional:
- The part to be replicated or the pieces of the broken part to be replaced
- Preferably cleaned if possibly to make the lines of the part easily distinguishable in the photograph.
- Digital Camera
- Can be the camera on a Phone or Tablet, however we recommend using a dedicated camera, like a compact digital camera or DSLR camera.
- Preferably it is a camera with a flash, or you have an area with bright, diffuse lighting - like a bright overcast day.
- A printout of our “Scale-grid for photographing parts” (download links are below in Step 1)
- A ruler - preferably one that has millimeters (mm), but inches will do.
Optional:
- Clay, putty, play-dough or something similar.
- This is to help hold the part in place or upright to be able to get an orthogonal or ‘square-on’ view of each side of the part.
- If you don’t have putty or clay, you can use, plumbers putty or a thick dough made by mixing flour and water until it is putty-like.
Step 1 - Print out the “Scale Grid for Photographing Parts”
- Select and click on one of the download links below
- You have the choice between 4 formats: Adobe PDF, MS WORD DOCX, Open Office ODT, JPG Image
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- Open the file you downloaded and print it out, as large as possible, on an 8.5 x 11 inch sheet of printer paper. Uncheck “Fit to Page” if you see that option in your printer dialog box.
- After the sheet has printed, fill in your name, the name of the part and your phone number.
- Using your ruler, measure the distance between the two lines indicated as accurately as possible.
- Write this number in the space provided and mark if you are measuring in millimeters (mm) or inches (in) - THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT See Image 1a.
Image 1a
Step 2 - Check the size of your part
- Put your part on the Scale Grid sheet.
- If your part fits within the grid in all dimensions (rotate it in all directions to make sure it fits) then procede to Step 3.
- If it DOESN’T fit, print out additional grids sheets and tape them together to create a large enough grid to fit under your part.
Step 3 - Prepare to photograph your part
- Put the grid sheet down on a flat and level surface - preferably in a bright area.
- Put the part at the top of the grid near your name and part name area.
- This first photograph will link your part and the information you filled out so we can more easily associate your photos with you and your part.
- See Image 3a
Image 3a
Step 4 - Part Orientation
- Locate the largest flat area of the part and/or an area where it will be able to sit on that side in a stable position.
- If you can’t find a position where the part will sit flat use some putty, clay, dough or other objects to prop up the part without obscuring details of the part facing the camera.
- Now put the part in the middle of the grid and try to align one edge of it along one of the grid lines, so the part edge is parallel to the grid line.
- See Image 4a
Image 4a
Step 5 - Mark and define the sides of your part on the grid
- Starting at the top of the paper/grid mark it with an “T” (for ‘top’ end).
- Moving clockwise mark an “R” (for right side) on the right side of the part.
- Mark a “B” (for “Bottom” end) at the bottom of the paper just below the part.
- Mark an “L” (for ‘left’ side) just to the left of the part.
Image 5a
Step 6 - Photograph the Front (Overhead) VIEW
- Orientate your camera so that the lens is directly above the middle of the part and pointed straight down so that it is as square to the paper grid as possible.
- To know if you are square to the grid, the lines of the grid should be parallel to all four sides of the frame of your image.
- See images 6a, 6b, and 6c to show bad and good examples of framing a part photo.
- We recommend taking several photos with the flash on and several with it off so you can choose the clearest and most square photo.
- Now take the photos.
Image 6a
In this example, the camera needs to be rotated clockwise
to make the lines of the grid line up with the frame of the photo.
In this example, the camera needs to be rotated clockwise
to make the lines of the grid line up with the frame of the photo.
Image 6b
Here the lines of the grid at the top and bottom of the part are parallel to the frame of the photo,
however, since the grid lines on the right and left of the part diverge toward the top,
the camera needs to be tilted down at the top to make them parallel to the sides.
Here the lines of the grid at the top and bottom of the part are parallel to the frame of the photo,
however, since the grid lines on the right and left of the part diverge toward the top,
the camera needs to be tilted down at the top to make them parallel to the sides.
Image 6c
This is an example of a GOOD photo. Here all the grid lines are squared and parallel to the frame of the photo,
and the part is perfectly centered in the image, which means the camera was perfectly level and centered
giving a perfect photo for our modelers to use.
This is an example of a GOOD photo. Here all the grid lines are squared and parallel to the frame of the photo,
and the part is perfectly centered in the image, which means the camera was perfectly level and centered
giving a perfect photo for our modelers to use.
Step 7 - Check the photo
- As in the examples 6a-6c, make sure the item is centered and squared to the grid
- If it isn’t, repeat step 6 until you are happy with your photo.
Step 8 - Side-Views / End-Views Preparation
- Create the background for the side and end views
- Take a blank sheet of your printer paper.
- Mark each side/edge of the paper with each of the four letters T, R, L & B (like you did on the grid paper) representing each of the four viewpoints.
- See image 8a to see exactly how it should look.
- NOTE: Each letter is upright relative to each edge of the paper - this is on purpose which will be clear momentarily.
- This background will help the modelers know which side they are seeing in the picture.
Image 8a
- Now prop up the white background you created with the lettering behind the part & grid paper by leaning it against a piece of cardboard that is leaning against a box or other object that will support the cardboard/background.
- The background cardboard/paper can be leaning back a bit to keep the paper from falling forward.
- See image 8b for the basic setup
Image 8b
- Leaving the part in place on the grid paper (making sure it is still ‘squared’ up to the grid), move the grid paper and background set-up to the edge of the table
- See image 8c
Image 8c
Step 9 - Photographing each side and both ends
- Orientate the camera so the lens is at the level of the table surface and then move it up so that it is level with the middle of the part both vertically and horizontally.
- See image 9a
Image 9a
- The white background should cover the whole part when you look through the camera, if not move the white background closer to the part until there is white behind the entire part.
- The background doesn’t need to fill the frame, there just needs to be white behind the whole part.
- NOTE: The white background must also be orientated such that the letter of the side of the part you are shooting should be visible on the background behind the part
- If it is not, write it again on the paper in a place that will be visible.
- See image 9b
Image 9b
- Now, take several pictures, or until you are confident it is the most clear photo you can take. Try some with the flash on and some with it off. The goal is to see the part and all of its details and lines as clearly as possible
- See image 9c
Image 9c
- Now turn the grid paper 90 degrees clockwise leaving the part in the same place on the paper.
- Also, turn the background 90 degrees clockwise so that the letter of the new side you are shooting is at the bottom of the background and visible behind the part - if not write it again on the paper in a place that will be visible.
- See image 9d for an example
Image 9d
- Repeat the above steps for the remaining side and top.
- See images 9e & 9f
- You should now have photos of each of the 4 sides: L, B, R, & T
Step 10 - Shooting the back side of the part
- At this point you want to flip the part over so the back side of the part is facing up but the top and bottom are still at the top and bottom of the grid.
- If the part won’t sit up so that the back side is parallel to the grid paper use some putty, clay or dough to prop it up till it is square - i.e. 180 degrees from when it was front side up.
- Since by turning the part over you have switched the right and left sides you will need to re-label the letters for right and left on the grid paper.
- See image 10a
Image 10a
- Now repeat Steps 6 and 7 above to photograph the back side of the part in exactly the same way as when you photographed the front (overhead) view.
Step 11 - Detail shots
- Depending on how complex and detailed the part is, take close-up photos of all the detailed areas and complex areas of the part using your best judgement as to what is most important.
- Make sure the letter indicating the end/side of the part is visible in the photo. If necessary add extra letters closer or farther away from the part.
- See images 11a-11d for close-up examples and examples of the added letters
- To see all the close-up images, scroll down to the end.
Step 12 - Labeling Your Photos
- Pick the best photographs of each of the 6 views of your part.
- Change the names of the photos using the following format:
- [Last Name]_[First Initial]_[Part Name]_[View Angle/Info/Detail]_[version number]
- e.g. Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Right.jpg
- e.g. Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Info.jpg
- e.g. Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_4.jpg
- See image 12a for a couple of examples
- If the ‘Part Name’ is very long, feel free to abbreviate it
- The six sides are: Front (overhead), Left, Bottom, Right, Top, Back (reverse of front overhead)
- Make sure to label the first photo of the top of the grid paper with your information and length between the lines and include it with your upload
- e.g. Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Info.jpg
Image 12a
Step 13 - Upload your photos
- You should have at least 7 photos to upload: 6 View Angles, and the initial info photo.
- Click the upload photos link and follow the instructions to upload your photos.
Example of a full set of photos for a part:
These first 7 photos are the minimum we need to model your part:
These first 7 photos are the minimum we need to model your part:
The next 10 photos are additional detail photos which will help our modelers more accurately reproduce your part.
- These photos are not necessary, but highly recommended
- In this case there are 10 photos, however there could be fewer or more; the quantity all depends on the complexity of your part and how much detail needs to be reproduced.
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_01.jpg
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_04.jpg
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_07.jpg
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Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_02.jpg
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_05.jpg
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_08.jpg
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_10.jpg
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Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_03.jpg
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_06.jpg
Blow_J_DrawerHandle_Detail_09.jpg
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